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Troubleshooting Photos –
About Re-sizing Photos 2 – Why
Snapshot: Re-sizing photos, whether you're making them
larger or smaller, is a little more complicated than just telling your
photo-editing application, "Make it bigger/smaller," because
you also have to tell it how you want the change performed. This can be
reduced to a simple recipe you can use, outlined
in Resizing Photos 1 – How, or you can
read on and find out why the recipe works.
Why the Recipe works
Digital photos are composed of pixels,
a word which is short for picture element
(the fellow who invented the term may not have been fussy about
spelling, but that's alright because picel is hard to say and probably
would have morphed into pixel eventually anyway.)
Pixels are pure information, individual little collections of data about
tone and color at a particular point in a photo, that only take physical
form when they are presented on your monitor, or by your printer on a piece
of paper.
The main thing to remember about pixels is that they are discrete points
of information, so unlike a traditional
negative, you can't enlarge a digital image by 'stretching' it optically
the way you could with a film negative (actually you can, sort of – but
the results with photos aren't pretty – the photo may end up with
either obvious
pixellation or it may look soft
and ill-defined).
When you enlarge a digital image, the process begins with expansion of
the matrix on which the existing pixels are located. The illustration below
shows a 4 x 4 block of pixels that is to be enlarged 400 per cent (depending
on content, this is about the greatest possible enlargement by normal
means). This initial step leaves great voids between the existing pixels,
which must be filled if the image is to look good.
The picture above represents the first stages in an enlargement.
The red-grey square of 16 pixels at top was extracted and enlarged
2400% to show the individual pixels clearly. It is most of the turned-up
collar and head of the person in red on the dock. On screen, it's about
1/24 of an inch square (less than 1mm square). To make a larger image
(in this case, 400% or 4x larger, the original 4x4 matrix must expand
to 16x16. The method by which those empty squares are filled depends
on your choice of enlargement routine.
The next move is up to you. When you open the image re-sizing
dialog (Photoshop: Image >> Image Size ... ; Elements:
Image >> Resize >>
Image Size... ), you'll see three items at the bottom of the box
(this process is also described on a page devoted to enlarging):
- a checkbox labelled "Resample Image" (which must be checked
if you want the real size of the image altered);
- another labelled "Constrain
Proportions" (may be called "Preserve Aspect Ratio" or
similar – it tells the program to calculate
a new second dimension in proportion to the first so the image preserves
the original ratio of width to height).
- a set of options for enlarging and reducing size, including "Nearest
Neighbor", "Bilinear", "Bicubic", "Bicubic Smoother" and "Bicubic
Sharper".
The last bullet point refers to options for interpolation, a math-based
process for deriving the color and tone of new pixels from the ones
that are already there. In an enlargement, these will lie in the
blank spaces between the original pixels. In a size reduction, the
new pixel will replace those that are being removed. The more information
you allow your application to use in interpolation, the better the
results will be.
- "Nearest Neighbor" interpolation simply looks at the color
and tone of the pixel nearest the one it wants to create. The effect
is simply to make all the existing pixels larger, with little or
no reference to adjacent pixels (which is why Nearest Neighbor is
sometimes called "Pixel Resize"). When used for photos, it
produces results like this pixellated
steamer.
For this reason, Nearest Neighbor is only suited to reproducing
hard-edged graphics like the little view camera at the bottom of
the page.
- "Bilinear" interpolation looks at the color and tone
of a 2 x 2 group of pixels, and creates a pixel between them that
averages the color and tone of the four original pixels. For photos,
it's a marked improvement over Nearest Neighbor, but compared to
Bicubic, its results are rough and prone to artifacts.
- "Bicubic" interpolation
considers the color and tone of a 4 x 4 group of pixels. The new
pixel created at the center gives greater weight to the pixels close
to the new pixel, less weight to the farther pixels. It takes a little
longer, but gives the best results of all the enlargement and reduction
routines included with image-editing programs.
- You may also see the options, "Bicubic
Smoother" and "Bicubic
Sharper". These simply add additional processing steps after interpolation
is complete to achieve smoother enlargements or sharper reductions.
Many commentators think these steps are best done after you've had
a chance to look at the picture and decide how much smoothing or
sharpening is necessary, but if you like the results, use them.
This illustration shows what happened to the 16
pixels shown above when the photo was enlarged by different interpolation
routines. nearest shows "Nearest
Neighbor" interpolation,
aka "Pixel
Resize", which just makes the pixels larger. The obvious pixels make
photos jagged and unappealing. bicubic shows bicubic interpolation,
which does some sophisticated averaging to keep the smooth flow of color
you expect in a photo. bilinear shows bilinear interpolation,
which renders more quickly than bicubic but is less smooth and prone to
creating artifacts; fast contemporary computers have made it obsolete.
A real-world example cropped from the photo above after it was enlarged
400% by various interpolation routines. nearest has
an unacceptable case of jagged pixellation. bilinear is smoother,
but bicubic is sufficiently
better that it's worth the brief extra processing time required by
its more complex averaging. Note the better definition of edges and
the increased clarity of colors, whether the muted earth tones of the
background field or the bright red of the jacket.
There is a new class of interpolation routines known as "adaptive" because
they first analyze the photo for edges of tone and color, then apply
different interpolation routines optimized for edges, areas of smooth
color, blends, etc. Generally, normal interpolation is good up to 400%;
adaptive interpolation can take you quite a bit farther (as ever, 'how
far' depends on the image and your expectations, but so far none of
them can perform like the computers in movie thrillers that spot bad
guys a kilometer away in snapshots taken with a camera phone). All
adaptive routines are sold separately and often include both "pro" (for
making billboards) and "home"
(less expensive) versions. They include:
The list is not exhaustive. This is a field where a lot of new ideas
are being developed so new products appear frequently. Google
a phrase like 'enlarge photos' if you're interested. As always, try
before you buy – run the
trial on a few of the shots you think
you'd like to enlarge before you reach for your credit card.
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