Troubleshooting Photos –
About Buying Photo Equipment
Cameras
'Some camera nerds are so busy fussing about having exactly the right gear that they forget that the whole purpose is to take photographs.' – observation from an on-line photography discussion.
There are so many cameras and uses for cameras that this can only be the most general of advice. The two most important questions are, 'what do you want to do with the camera?' and 'how much do you want to spend on it?' It's more important to have a camera that you will enjoy taking pictures with than to have a camera that impresses camera snobs and other twits.
First, the megapixel issue. The size of the sensor that gathers light for your photo is measured in millions of pixels, which some bright spark in marketing named 'megapixels'. The camera industry has allowed this word to become synonymous with 'quality', but sensor size is only a small part of image quality. Quality depends on the sharpness of the lens, the electronics that support the sensor and a number of other factors sufficiently complicated as to be outside the scope of this site; read the suggested review sites for guidance on quality. What 'megapixel' really denotes is the maximum pixel dimensions of the image that the camera can take, and by extension, the maximum size of the print that can be made without enlarging in a photo-editing application. A 7-megapixel camera might have a maximum image size of 3070 pixels by 2300 pixels. This means that photos from this camera can be printed at over 10 in. by 7.5 in. at the preferred 300 ppi print resolution or that you can crop the picture to highlight a particular portion, and still achieve a decent print size. If you never do more than make 4 in. x 6 in. prints, don't even bother thinking about megapixels – the cameras now available from leading manufacturers are more than capable.
Leaving the megapixel question behind, here's a watershed question: which camera suits your photo style – a point-&-shoot (p-&-s) or a Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR)?
If you want to document the family and your travels or take pictures of things that interest you, rather than take pictures as an artistic pursuit, you may be very happy with a point-&-shoot camera (a camera, usually relatively small, that you simply aim at your subject, allowing it to do the rest). Ignore the snobbery sometimes aimed at these cameras. They are light and portable, so you're more likely to have them with you when you want them, and they are packed with features that can make them very powerful tools (but you absolutely must read the manual – not once, but at regular intervals, because some features may seem totally baffling at first, but after you use the camera for a while, you'll understand why these features are there and you'll start using them productively).
DSLR's are great tools, but even if you have one, you may find that you still take many photos with a point-&-shoot if you have one, simply because you are so much more likely to have it with you when opportunity knocks.
Despite the example immediately above, there are times when a point-&-shoot will frustrate you. There will be a short but significant time lag between pressing the shutter button and taking the photo (the camera is computing focus and exposure), which is maddening when you're trying to photograph any movement. You can't change the lens. You have little or no control of the aperture/shutter interaction, so some effects are difficult or impossible. Because the sensor that captures the image is smaller, the image quality is somewhat lower. The only flash is on-camera flash, which is often harsh (unless used just as fill light). Nevertheless, in the time it will take you to learn to be annoyed by these characteristics, you will also have learned a lot about composing scenes, light, photo-editing software and so on, that will make you a much better photographer. This may drive you to a DSLR, but it may just make you want a better point-&-shoot (there are always lots of interesting new features, but the most compelling reason for buying a new p-&-s is that they're getting faster at computing focus and exposure, which means you can use them when the subject is moving).
There are good reasons for buying a DSLR . They compute focus and exposure very fast (a good one can focus on fast-moving objects like aircraft more quickly than you can). You can add external flashes, lenses and other items that really extend your range of possibilities. You can manipulate settings to achieve a broad range of effects not possible with a point-&-shoot. Image quality is superior. On the downside, they are complex, and they can get expensive really quickly. They are relatively heavy and bulky; add a few additional lenses and you've got a load on your shoulders that is sufficiently heavy that you will divide outings into camera and no-camera outings (or DSLR-carrying vs. p-&-s-carrying outings).
There is a category of camera that looks similar to a DSLR but isn't; they are sometimes referred to as 'super-zooms'. They have a big, but non-interchangeable zoom lens and the viewfinder doesn't actually look through the lens as a DSLR's does; instead, it's a small view-screen that you look into. These cameras have many of the disadvantages of point-&-shoots (long shutter lag time is the most irritating) but they do usually have a very powerful zoom lens with a range of focal lengths greater than that of a smaller p-&-s, often in the range of 10x to 20x. Early ones were all compromise, but the newer ones have been seriously improved. They aren't as compact as p-&-s cameras and they're not as versatile as a DSLR, but if the idea of a smallish camera that can shoot wide-angle and a fairly long telephoto appeals to you, look into them.
Whatever you buy:
- Take some time to buy a camera. Visit several reputable camera stores with a broad selection and tell them honestly what you've done with a camera and what you want to do. Don't expect meaningful advice from a big-box electronics store (this week's 'photo specialist' probably was last week's 'car audio specialist'). Try a number of cameras in stores. Make sure you can operate the controls comfortably – some cameras have controls designed for pixies. Make sure the camera feels right in your hands.
- Disinterested, specific advice is easily available. If you're looking for a point-&-shoot, read the reviews in Consumer Reports (CR); a month-long on-line subscription is inexpensive. CR gathers a lot of information on important variables like shutter lag time (shorter the better) and battery life (longer the better) that you would find impossible to compare by yourself. Build a shortlist from CR then read the in-depth reviews on Digital Photography Review and Steve's Digicams . CR also covers the lower end of the DSLR market (sometimes with a few higher-end cameras thrown in), but for this category, you should definitely spend time with the dedicated and in-depth sites. Talk to friends who like taking pictures, especially friends who are just a bit more advanced than you are (expert photographers may not know much about the cameras that interest a relative beginner).
- It used to really pay to shop around for cameras and equipment. Now, prices are very uniform, so there's more value in dealing with people you're comfortable with. A significant price difference often means that a retailer has obtained refurbished product (sometimes a very good deal) or a close-out on a model that's about to be replaced. Be careful, though – there are on-line retailers who offer low, low prices – but they won't honour those prices unless you buy a lot of accessories that you probably don't need, and that push the price above what you'd pay in a decent store. In the US, Adorama and B&H are highly regarded. In Canada, it's Henry's and Vistek.
- Battery power used to be a real issue, so many people bought cameras powered by AA disposable batteries to be sure of being able to replace depleted batteries. Obviously, if you're out in the wilderness, power is still an issue, but lithium-ion batteries and their chargers are so good now that recharging is not normally an issue. One remaining problem – most batteries run out of power gracefully, giving you lots of warning time to recharge or replace; others, though, transition from low power to no power in about two shots. If you have one of these (and the only way to find out if you do is to carry the camera around for a while, taking pictures of everything and anything until the battery goes dead), a spare battery, normally a good idea, becomes an essential.
- The accessory kits sold with point-&-shoot cameras are often a good bet; a recent Canon offering included a leather case, a spare battery and cleaning cloth for less than the cost of the battery.
- Many people only ever compose photos by viewing the LCD display screen on the screen , but having and knowing how to use a rangefinder (aka, viewfinder) for composition is a great asset. Seeing an LCD screen in bright sunlight or a relatively dark room is frustrating; a rangefinder makes it much easier. Also, pressing a camera to your face to see through the rangefinder helps steady the camera for sharp focus.
- Don't get too worried about the number of megapixels unless you have a specific need for a larger image. Strictly speaking, most people could get by on 3 megapixels, but the minimum for major manufacturers appears to be 8 megapixels and climbing, a distinct advantage if you ever crop your photos. See this page on print sizes.
- Look for a camera with the ability to shoot in low light without flash (on-camera flash is good for fill light but makes harsh photos if it's the primary source of light). It will serve you well at family gatherings, parties, etc.
- Understand the difference between 'optical zoom' and 'digital zoom'. Optical zoom is the ability of the camera to increase its lens' focal length, to optically reach out and bring distant objects nearer, which is a valuable ability. Think of it as the ability to reach for a pair of binoculars. Digital zoom is merely the ability to enlarge a portion of the image in the camera, a task that is better done on a computer. If you find you're using digital zoom often on your present camera, get a camera with a more powerful zoom lens.
- Unless you regularly print photos direct from your camera, ignore in-camera editing features when you choose. Anything you can do in the camera can be done faster and better on your computer, plus most in-camera changes are not reversible, so if you change your mind, you're stuck with a badly edited picture.
- Be sure you are buying legitimate merchandise. 'Grey market' cameras are the real thing at a lower price, but because they have been brought in outside the normal distribution chain, there is almost certainly no warranty or a very limited one. If the camera never has problems, you win. If it has problems, you end up with an expensive paperweight.
- Although extended warranties are over-priced insurance for almost every product you can name, they make sense in digital cameras because digital cameras are so expensive to fix.
- Whatever you buy, read the manual! This cannot be stressed enough. Read the manual! Yes, the manual is complicated, but read it anyway. Some of the complicated controls will start to make sense. Take lots of pictures. Read it again. It will make more sense the second time... and the third time. Etcetera. You'll be amazed at what this can do for your picture-taking ability, particularly in difficult situations.
If you think you'd like a DSLR, the advice about talking to people at reputable camera stores goes double. Keep in mind that when you buy a DSLR, you're not just buying a camera, but 'membership' in a system; satisfy yourself that the system has the lenses, flash units and other toys you think you might like in the future. Read the reviews on Digital Photography Review and Steve's Digicams. If you read the readers' comments on review sites, remember that these may be too short to give you a clear picture of the commenter's experience and bias (photography, and photography sites, attract a lot of strange people). Take them with a grain of salt. If you have settled on a new and popular camera, it may help to check the price comparisons maintained on Digital Photography Notes.
The current numbers one and two camera makers are Canon and Nikon and in the DSLR world, their lead is overwhelming; both have large constituencies among pros and amateurs, which keeps good ideas percolating up and down their product lines (other makers have good products, but these are the majors by a long shot – they do, though, carry a price premium). A good purchase strategy is to pick one or the other of them and buy an entry-level DSLR, which will probably come with a 'kit' lens. Entry-level DSLR's are excellent quality cameras, aggressively priced for what you get and normally only lacking the most advanced features that appeal to skilled photographers. Work carefully with your camera to replace reliance on its automated functions with an ability to control the camera manually, or to use a judicious mix of manual and automatic functions (for instance, current DSLR's are better at focusing on fast-moving objects than most people are, so if you're photographing sports, it may be a good idea to let your camera take over this task, but again, you should read the manual carefully so you understand all the tricks that wring top performance from your auto-focus).
Your first next step may be to replace your kit lens with a better quality lens with a larger aperture (this will cost as much or more than the camera). At that point, you'll probably know enough about the subject that any further advice here would be pointless, other than this – take lots of pictures, concentrate on getting the picture right in the camera, rather than 'fixing' it later on the computer, and have fun (the most important part).
Memory cards
Every digital camera except kiddy digitals (yes, there are such things) uses removable memory cards. Your camera probably came with one with absurdly low capacity. You will need more memory, particularly if you intend to use the camera away from a computer that you can empty the card onto on a regular basis. The price of memory continues to drop, so this is less of an issue than it was.
- Your camera will take a specific type of memory card; if your camera takes an SD card, you can't put a CF card in it and vice versa. Check your manual or read the name off the card you already have. Two other things to watch are the number of megabytes or gigabytes of memory in the card and the speed of the memory. First, there may be a limit to the number of megabytes or gigabytes your camera can write to. Second, your camera will have a maximum write-to-memory speed. When you take a picture, the camera processes the image in its internal memory, then writes it to the memory card. If the card memory is faster than camera memory, everything will still work, but fast memory is premium-price memory and you will have wasted some money. So – match your new card's memory capacity and speed to the camera's capabilities. If you can't find this information in the manual or the maker's support site, major manufacturer SanDisk has a compatibility list (the 'recommended' list seems to include cards at exactly the right speed plus cards one step faster, so you're safe in taking the lower speed).
- For best results, buy name brands in preference to white-label or house brands. Consistency is the issue. The nature of house brands is that the retailer buys on price from anyone who looks reasonable, so success with one house-brand memory card is no guarantee that you're going to get the same results with the next one you buy. For real consistency, stick with major manufacturers like SanDisk and Lexar.
- There is a lot of counterfeit memory on sale; crooks buy cheap memory, re-label it as premium goods and sell it on the Web. Therefore, whether you shop in person or on the Web, buy from a reputable source such as a trusted camera or electronics outfit (take advantage of big-box prices, but remember the point above, about the uselessness of photo advice from electronics stores).
- If much of your photography involves movement or rapid multiple shots (sports, performance, children, etc.), buy memory of the highest speed your camera supports. Otherwise, consider this: have one or two high-capacity cards (say, 50 to 100 pictures at your camera's highest quality and image size setting) at the highest speed your camera can handle. That way you're covered if you do want to take a few pictures in a situation that warrants it. To be sure you have enough capacity for a holiday – pictures at the beach, landscapes and other subjects that don't move fast, consider buying memory that's one step down from your camera's optimum speed – you can save 50% or more.
- Get a memory-card holder that will keep your memory cards clean, dry and dust-free.
- A card reader is nice but not an essential accessory; you can read a memory card right from the camera if you have the right cable (which should have come with your camera). Again, don't waste money by buying a card reader that's faster than your memory cards.
Photo storage
Photo storage is the weak link in the digital photo revolution. Most people keep their entire photo library on their home computers, which is fine short-term. If you want to be able to look at your photos in the future, though, you have to start thinking long-term. Computers die, as do their hard disks. What then? People who spend time thinking about this issue recommend a two- or three- track solution: write your photos onto CD-R's or DVD-R's (name-brand, top-quality only and if you can find those labelled 'archival', buy those). Make two copies of each disc (using CD-R's or DVD-R's from different manufacturers) and store them upright in individual boxes in a cool, dark place. Also, consider buying an external hard drive (you can buy a 500 GB drive now for under $100), write your photos on that and then tuck it away someplace secure when you're not actively copying photos to it.
Photo printers
The magic phrase is 'photo printer'; a 'color printer' is for office pie charts. Photo printers have six or more inks on tap to give you rich, rewarding color; color printers have four inks that will disappoint you. Your purchase of those inks will also be rich and rewarding for the printer manufacturer. Printers are sold on the razor-blade model (sell 'em the razor cheap, knowing customers will have to pay a hefty price for new blades for the rest of their lives). The positive side is that you get a great printer for less than the cost of making it, but you do pay through the nose for the ink to keep it going. There's no easy way around this game but the page on print-making includes some options. Buy from a shop that shows example prints and concentrate on the prints that show the type of scenes you'd like to print.
Obsolescence
The digital camera market is like the PC market ten years ago, evolving really quickly. Everything you buy will become obsolete virtually the minute you buy it. Get used to it. Remember that:
- Even though a fabulous new model is available today, your camera still does what it did when you bought it. Learn to make the most of what it does do before spending a pile on something cooler and zingier.
- Yesterday's used camera still does what its previous owner bought it to do, but it does it at about 50% or less of the original price. Buy only from reputable camera stores that will give you a warranty.
Camera care
Two simple rules for a happy camera: don't drop it and don't get it wet.
- Very few warranties or insurance policies cover cameras you have dropped or let fall, so use the wrist or neck strap and don't leave your camera where someone is likely to knock it on the ground (as in, put it in the centre of the table, not on the edge).
- Rain, rivers and waves can kill your camera (don't forget ocean spray, doubly destructive because it's salty). At the very least, keep your camera in a waterproof bag (even a Zip-Loc bag) and out of the rain when you're out on a wet day. If you entertain yourself with watersports or other outdoor activities, get a proper dry-bag, a Pelican box or one of the specialized waterproof cases now available. Or consider buying a water-resistant camera (they don't like to say 'water-proof' any more); Fuji, Olympus and Pentax make 'water-resistant' point-&-shoots.
Two simple rules for a happy photographer: keep your camera clean and keep it with you.
- Keep your camera clean. Much of the world is made of dirt, and it's powerfully attracted to camera lenses. Murphy's Law guarantees that if there's a fleck of dirt on your lens, it will blur the middle of someone's face in a picture you particularly wanted. You bought a camera with a sharp lens, so keep it that way; buy a lens-cleaning kit for your camera and clean the lens before you go out with it, every time.
- Sticky fingers love digital cameras; they are light, compact, valuable and readily re-sellable. Five seconds after you put yours down on a counter to look for your sunglasses, your camera could be in his pocket... or is it in her purse? Anyway it's gone. Keep the wrist or neck strap on when it's out, and keep it out of sight when you're not using it. If your camera comes with one of those dumb neck straps that proclaims Nikon or Canon or Sony or whatever, just remember this is international language for 'Rob me!' Black it out with a marker or buy something less obtrusive.
